Heather, Friendship and the Spirit of Saint Aelred

Beneath azure blue skies and amongst the purple heather of the North York Moors, ten pilgrims gathered at All Saints Church, Old Byland, for the Saint Aelred’s Pilgrim Trail Society’s Summer Heather Pilgrimage.

Held on Wednesday 12 August, this was the second of four seasonal small-group guided pilgrimages being offered this year, inviting people to experience the landscapes, churches and spiritual heritage of the Trail in the company of fellow travellers.

Following a welcome and reflection by George Gyte in the ancient Saxon and Norman church at Old Byland, the pilgrims set out across the hidden valley of Caydale towards Murton Grange.

The route itself offered plenty to notice. Along the way the group met people working in the landscape, including dry-stone wallers — a reminder that these hills and dales are not simply beautiful scenery but a living and working landscape, shaped by generations of people.

Murton Grange, like Old Byland, is recorded in the Domesday Book and later belonged to the monks of Byland Abbey. Coffee, cakes and conversation were enjoyed here while taking in one of the finest views in the North York Moors National Park. Below lay Hawnby, nestled between Arden Moor and the Hawnby and Easterside hills, with the Cleveland Hills stretching across the horizon beyond.

The pilgrimage continued down to the beautiful setting of All Saints Church, Hawnby, beside the River Rye. Here the Revd Ian Robinson offered a second reflection, considering the history and life of this medieval church and the generations for whom it has been a place of welcome, hospitality, spiritual companionship and faith.

From Hawnby the pilgrims rounded Hawnby Hill, descended the steep-sided Ladhill Gill and climbed again onto Hawnby Moor.

And this was where the “Heather Pilgrimage” really lived up to its name.

The heather was at its summer best, carpeting the moor in wonderful shades of purple beneath wide Yorkshire skies. Lunch amongst the flowering heather — with homemade quiche, sausage rolls and cold drinks — was particularly welcome after the morning’s walking.

There was time simply to enjoy being there too: to stop, to look, to talk and to share the experience with others.

Descending Wetherhouse Moor, the group paused amongst the heather to hear a poem written by Anne Stewart, before continuing towards Fangdale Beck and Bilsdale.

There were encounters with some of the other inhabitants of the Trail along the way too.

The final church of the day was St John’s, Bilsdale, where the Revd Mel Burnside reflected on Saint Aelred’s understanding of friendship and the importance of companionship on pilgrimage and in life.

Aelred believed that friendship could be one of the places in which we encounter something of God. After a day spent walking together, talking, sharing food, helping one another over difficult stretches and sometimes simply walking quietly alongside one another, it seemed an especially appropriate place to finish.

As one pilgrim, Jan, reflected afterwards:

“The scenery was stunning, the churches and their histories were fascinating, but it was the friendship and reflections that made the day so special.”

Rosie similarly spoke of the joy of “meeting old acquaintances as well as making new ones”, while Jill and Mike said they had enjoyed the pilgrimage so much that they would “definitely do more of the Saint Aelred’s Pilgrim Trail.”

Each pilgrim was given a sprig of Hawnby Moor heather tied with the Saint Aelred’s Pilgrim Trail colours and a pebble bearing the Trail logo as a small reminder of the day.

And although this was a walking pilgrimage, one of the joys of the Saint Aelred’s Pilgrim Trail is that there are different ways of travelling through this landscape.

The pilgrimage finally returned to Old Byland, where tea and seasonal berry cakes in the ancient church brought everyone back to the place where the day had begun.

A happy, if rather weary, band of pilgrims headed home carrying memories of heather-covered moors, ancient churches, generous hospitality, new friendships and the enduring spirit of Saint Aelred.

Photos courtesy of Mike Ellis.